Headers vs manifold5/20/2023 ![]() Then we will compare headers vs manifold in many aspects and we will draw our conclusion when it comes to these mods. In this article, first, we are going to learn what are headers and what are manifolds. That’s why you need to make sure that you learn these downsides and we are going to help you out. It will benefit in some aspects and will set back in other aspects. So, when you are messing around with it like in this example with installing headers. These are the settings on which the car works and performs the best. Stock settings are also boring for some people, as they are the settings that were meant for your car from the factory. Not knowing what are the possible outcomes of a certain mod will make you regret that you installed that mod in the first place and can cost you thousands of dollars to bring your car back to stock settings. Sorry for the rant,it's just the "restriction is good" statement just eats at me.Are you planning on installing performance headers on your vehicle and you are still thinking between headers vs manifold? Which are the ups and downs of both of these components and which one of them is better? If that is the case, then you shouldn’t worry because we are going to cover everything you need to know when it comes to this upgrade.Īdding performance upgrades to your car is cool but every performance upgrade has downsides that you should know before you install it on your car. If a loss of power happens after a change from a manifold to a properly sized tube header it is because the engine now moves more air, and needs a mixture change to make up for it. There is a reason nearly all Big Inch, 390 up, STREET engine headers seem to all have 1 3/4" primary tubes (and not just Fords) and 302's do well with 1 1/2"-1 5/8",it's not just luck. Making those same 2"primary's 36" long and now the power comes on at 4000rpm with little drop at 7000up and now its a road race header. Even a 2" header at 26"long on my 433in FE with good flowing modded Edelbrocks would be behind on power below 5000rpm,but fly in a drag only application with launch RPM at 6000,shifting at 7500. The "restriction is good" myth came about because the early header builders used the if some is good bigger is better design method. Stan's FPA's fill a need very well and will make more power than even the best FE Factory Manifold in a Mustang (Those Big Gal.427 Iron Headers are pretty impressive.) Flat 390's and CJ's may beat them from idle to 2000rpm,but those will be stomped from then up.Ģ89 Street Shelbys got Tri Y's because they improved power over the HiPo cast manifold,and installed easily but the real racecars had 4 in to ones. Long tubes PROPERLY sized tend make more power at either low end,LONG (32-34") SMALLER tubes,or Mid to up high LARGER DIA shorter tubes (26-28") the Modern Tri Y (Like Burns Stainless and pretty much every NASCAR team) runs 24-32" primary's merging to a secondary about the same length and enjoy greater power over the whole range. In Jay Browns Book (see ) the Hookers (you killed)are 45HP up on CJ manifolds and about 25 up on FPA's.Īt the risk of becoming argumentative, restriction never helps, Tri Y "works well" because they are better than cast manifolds in pretty much all cases. BTW the Hookers can go in bolted to the engine too. If in the car,take off one motor mount and support the engine,maybe raise it too,then install bolts,some need to go in before others,some not at all,good luck,too bad you killed the better set. Keep the incredible ground clearance and solid head flanges though.īeing you killed the Hookers,if the car is not a racer go with FPA's (be ready to raise the clutch Z bar cross shaft brackets at least 3/8inch,if not 1/2") helacoil the upper idler arm bracket hole,bolt will not fit,then cut the bolt off flush. IMHO ,Stan needs to redesign the FE Mustang header,keep the Tri Y,make the primary tubes longer (about 16"-18") and the secondary another 18",and use better merging sections and insure clearance for unmoved stock clutch linkage. IMHO the "fit" everybody raves about is no different from the very old design Hooker 6114 whose only real problem is ground clearance. The fit is tight for really no reason,they are a true PITA to install in the car. I hated the monkey motion I had to pull off to make the stock clutch linkage "work". I swapped them with FPA's and lost NOTICEABLE low end from off idle up,in autocross I run in 2nd gear with the rpm dropping to 1500 a lot with the long tube headers I could light the rear tires at will below 3000rpm,now well it's a lot softer. I removed them because of my autocross problem and lowering the car to the point those headers were only 1 1/8" from the ground. I have a used set of Hooker 6114's like the ones you killed. Unless your problem was ground clearance you cut up the best street header for an FE.
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